Gannan Travel Guide
Wholly and officially known as Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Gannan is a vast land in southern Gansu Province. The area has an altitude of 2,960 meters (9,711 ft) and footage of 40,898 km2 (15,791 sq mi). The Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and the Loess Plateau form boundless grassland. Weather in Gannan is typically continental, cold, and dry and has long sunshine hours.
There are 9 administrated areas and some Tibetan villages, governed under Hezuo City. The population was 690,000, made up of 23 minority ethnic groups and the Han. The Tibetan people, who are mostly herdsmen or farmers living in remote towns, take up over half of the population. The most popular religion is Tibetan Buddhism. And the most famous religious site, Labrang Monastery in Xiahe shows the strong influence of the Gelug sect of Tibetan Buddhism, aka the Yellow Hat School.
Tips to Know Before You Go
The best travel time comes from the late spring to the middle summer. Just waving goodbye to the snowy days, Gannan embraces a warm and cozy summer, with lush grassland and vibrant life going on in towns and prairies. Most religious events and celebrations take place in spring.
As for accommodations, the administrated seat, Hezuo City, has some options for 3-star hotels. The guesthouse can be found in Xiahe County and Langmusi County, with nothing luxurious to expect. Stay at a local Tibetan household is also possible if you contact them beforehand in good communication, rewarding you with special experience and first-hand insight into local life.
Top Things to Do in Gannan
1. Labrang Monastery
Labrang Monastery is what makes the small town of Xiahe known worldwide. This grand monastery is located westbound 1km outside Xiahe County. It’s one of the six most important temples of the Gelug sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Originally built in the Qing Dynasty (1709) and it has been a spiritual center in the traditional Tibetan area of Amdo. More than just a temple, Labrang Monastery also symbolizes regional autonomy.
Footage of the monastery is 866,000 square meters, including a floorage of over 40,000 square meters of 90-some assembly halls, 18 shrines, 18 living rooms, and several rostrums, printing houses, debating areas, and stupas. Six institutes make the monastery stand as one of China’s most important Buddhist universities. There used to be over 4,000 live-in lamas in their prime era.
The construction style of the monastery takes the influence of Tibetan and Han styles. Gazing from the mountainside, the white-painted walls and golden roofs glitter under the sun. Decorations inside the assembly halls are elaborately carved, including Dharma Chakra wheels, Ying-Yang sacred animals, precious vases, and lions. The monastery houses nearly 60,000 sutras, Buddha statues, Thangkas, and murals.
Overseeing a debate is absolutely a highlight. Lamas gather in tree shades and start their practicing by asking and answering with sutras intensively. Their laughing, yelling, dancing, waving and fisting might seem hilarious to nonbelievers yet it requires years of practice and study in Buddhism.
2. Sangke Grassland
Like an endless green blanket rolling out, Sangke Grassland is a rich stretch located 10km southwest of Xiahe County. Fluffy clouds float and flow in the sky, lush prairie greeting the eye, the 70-sq.-km fertile alpine grassland is home to herdsmen who used to lead a nomadic life.
The government has gone to lengths to help the Tibetan nomads settle down in crafted villages on the grassland. Nowadays, herdsmen tend their flock with help of motorbikes and trucks and live in houses with tapping water and electricity. Nevertheless, Tibetan lifestyles, especially religious customs, are maintained. They set a shrine inside their houses and build up prayer flags around their yards, all in the worship of the Buddha.
As it is close to Hezuo, travelers make an easy escape to nature. Horseback riding, picnics, go climbing the mountain or an overnight stay in a Tibetan household can be very interesting. Summer is always the best time for the grassland. Try out local foods or even Tibetan customs for great photos.
Address: 10km southwest of Xiahe County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture
3. Bajiao City Ruins
The less famous Baijiao City Ruins is located 35km eastbound of Xiahe County, on the joint bay of the Yangqu River and Yangla River. Despite its desertedness, it used to be a vital strategic point in the intermittent battles between the Han empires and ethnic groups. Quite a few travelers make it to this site, leaving it mysteriously untouched with much to tell.
History documents, findings of ancient coins, and the construction itself present a conjecture that the ruins date back to at least 1,900 years ago in the Han Dynasty. Bajiao in Chinese means octagon, due to the eight sides of walls that enclose a hollow cross-shaped area that serves as the city center. There are terrace fields on the surrounding mountain slopes, some of which clamber up to the mountain top.
What’s unique about the ruins is the strange construction: there is a moat around the city, which is enclosed by a long trench that is also surrounded by an outer rampart. Distance between turrets is within the arrow’s shooting range, regardless of its large footage as a whole. Such a constructional style is nowhere to be found, leaving it as the one and only example.
Address: 35km east of Xiahe County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture
Admission Fee: Free
4. Langmusi
Literally meaning Langmu Temple, Langmusi is actually referred to as a small village located in the joint region of Sichuan Province and Luqu County of Gansu Province. The intriguing mixture of Tibetans, Hans, and Muslims draws people to a long yet worthwhile visit, let alone the breathtaking landscape.
Home to less than 4,800 people, Langmusi shares a bucolic refuge in the bustling world. Overlooking each other, Sertri Monastery in Gansu and Kirti Monastery located in Sichuan are divided by a snaking river. Besides these two famous monasteries, mosques dot the land, making it a strangely rare scene when the believers respectively practice their religions.
In the gorge behind the Kirti Monastery, there are some meditation caves for monks and pilgrims in general. Hiking around the Sertri Monastery on the Gansu side of the village, it is easy to be impressed by the delicate exterior of the monastery itself. A further visit to the nearby villages will introduce some friendly Tibetan herders.
Hiking on the mountainside will require guidance in sort of local people or at least a GPS device. Horse trekking, which is also a popular thing to do. But it can be arranged worry-free by local herders or companies.
Address: Luqu County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture
5. Laga Mountain
Known by the locals as the Gods’ favorite place on earth, Laga Mountain is located at the upper stream of Bailong River in Lijie Town, 12km out of Zhouqu County. With an altitude of 2,000 meters, the mountain holds various climates and the landscape differs by season.
40 households have been living in the valley-wrapped village with soaring peaks and dense forest around. Despite its humbleness, the small town dates back to the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Period. The Gelug sect of Tibetan Buddhism reached its prime in the Tang Dynasty when Zhanchan Temple (占单寺) was first built. The temple houses numerous Thangkas and murals and is the venue for the annual ceremony known as Mountain Worship.
The entrance of the mountain is located 3km away from Zhanchan Village, greeted with a spectacular waterfall spouting out of rocks. Hiking and camping in the natural setting have become the biggest selling point for travel to Laga Mountain.
Address: 3km southwest of Lijie Town of Quzhou County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture
6. Milariba Buddha Pavilion
An important religious site for the Amdo area, Milariba Buddha Pavilion is located in Hezuo City, the administrated seat of the Amdo Tibetan Region. The original building was destroyed in the Great Cultural Revolution. The present one was built in 1988 in honor of the great Patriarch Milarepa.
The great Patriarch Milarepa was the founder of the Kagyu sect (White Hat) of Tibetan Buddhism. Milarepa preached the words of Buddha by singing and left an important impact on Tibetan poetry as his disciples carried on his cause. He is widely honored and worshiped due to his provoking studies on Tantrism which is long-held in other sects of Tibetan Buddhism.
Visitors will be introduced to several major Buddhas on the first floor, including Sakyamuni, Maitreya, Medicine Guru, and Manjusri. The founder of the Gelug sect (Yellow Hat), Je Tsongkhapa, and his disciples are standing on the second floor. The Nyingmapa sect (Red Hat) has its display on the third floor. Different aspects of Tibetan culture and religion are showcase on each floor, offering a nutshell insight into Tibetan Buddhism.
Address: North of the mountain slope of Hezuo City, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture
7. Gahai Lake
The largest freshwater lake in the Gannan region, Gahai Lake sleeps in arms of lush grassland on a highland of 3,000 to 4,000 meters above sea level. All rivers from the mountains direct their way to the lake, gathering up to 10,000 ha. Being home to hundreds of breeds of birds, the lake was made a nation-level reserve base of black-necked cranes.
The land around the lake remains unexploited and perfect for herders. Locals believe that the lake is the blood flow of the dragon king’s daughter. Any touch to make a difference is blasphemy. Travelers make stops at the lake on the way to Luqu County. Bird watching, camping, trekking, or simply wandering can be really appealing for those who long for an idyllic break away.
Address: Luqu County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture
Tips for Traveling in Gannan
1. How to get in and around
Regardless of China’s powerful rail network, the expressway is the only way to get in and out of the Gannan region. Hezuo City is the prime gateway. Buses go from Hezuo to Lanzhou, Linxia, Xiahe, Langmusi, Maqu, and other counties in Gannan. However, one must get to Hezuo City via Lanzhou. Long-distance buses leave from Lanzhou South Bus Station (兰州市汽车南站) for 4 times a day.
It is easier to rent a car for getting around in Gannan since most attractions are located out of town. Waiting for public transportation is a waste of time, and one can easily miss the last bus. The roads in Gannan are all good. National Highway, No.213 Highway connects with Sichuan and goes across Gannan, leading to plain and safe road travel.
2. Where to stay
Accommodation choices are quite slim in Gannan. With most attractions in Xiahe County and Langmusi Town, economic hotels can be found in both places, So is it in Hezuo City. Price ranges from CNY100-300 for a clean room, yet nothing upscale. No shower (or hot water) in the bathroom in some remote places. A local yurt is also a nice option.
3. What to wear and pack
For summer travel, long-sleeve T-shirts and long pants are daily essentials. Since the temperature can drop very low, an overcoat should be in the pack even when traveling in summer. A heavy-down jacket is suitable for winter travel.
Due to strong sunlight, sunglasses, hats, and sunscreen are needed. Aspirin is helpful for headaches caused by high altitudes. Besides, you should prepare some toilet paper, a cup, good walking shoes or boots, a map or a compass. Female travelers who need extra skincare, lotion, and moisturizer will help.
4. Stay healthy
The staple food in the Gannan region includes lamb, beef, highland barley, butter, milk, yogurt, and a small portion of rice. Travelers are susceptible to diarrhea, dizziness, dyspepsia, altitude stress, dairy-related allergy, and constipation due to a lack of fresh fruits or vegetables. Drinking water as much as possible may help the case.
Proper protection against strong sun rays reduces the chances of vertigo, sunburn, and over-drying. Most hotels don’t offer disposable amenities. Bring your own towels, toothbrush, flip-flops, and cup (for drinking and tooth brushing) so that you don’t have to use questionable supplies.
Altitude stress is often mild for most travelers. Consult with your personal doctor beforehand might give you a hint about how your body is going to react in Gannan. Nevertheless, try to avoid something too exciting or exhausting at one time. Take short breaks during long-distance trekking or mountain climbing.
5. Religious and cultural taboos
Buddha takes the most omnipotence and there are some heads-ups for travelers to respect the local religion and culture. For example, no finger-pointing at the Buddha statues, female travelers shall wear long-sleeve and long pants to visit a temple or monastery, no leaping over a fire brazier or sacrifice tools, prayer wheels or sutra cylinders should never be rolled counterclockwise.
When visiting a local home, there is something to be aware of: don’t touch anybody’s head, receive an offer (a cup of tea, wine, and stuff) with both your hands to show respect, and never dip your fingers in a bowl or cup. If the host offers you a cup of wine, you should first flick the wine in the air three times and lightly sip, the host will refill immediately and you take another sip, again when the cup is fully refilled you drink it all at once.
Discussions about Buddhism and Dalai Lama will not be well-received. Visitors at a religious site shall talk slowly in a low voice. Clapping hands and spitting behind another person will be considered an insult.
6. Things to Know if You Travel alone
Traveling alone in Gannan can be a rewarding challenge even though it means harsh and the possibility of getting lost. Plan your own trip and book the hotels, transportation, and activities (if possible) prior to your travel. It is important to get a sense of direction, how to get in and out and the distance between destinations for instance.
A map, compass, or GPS device will be good travel buddies. They will minimize your chance of getting lost provided you don’t stray to unfamiliar or unplanned places. Travelers on the bus must keep time in mind and try not to miss the last bus.
A neutral recognition of the service standards gains you a proper expectations. Most people in Gannan still depend on herding and farming. Running a hotel or restaurant is not their strongest suit and they wouldn’t bother to go the extra mile as the big city hotel hosts. This means, don’t be surprised when the hotel has no hot water.